Sorry it took me so long to get settled in back home.  What a nightmare of a trip that was- after missing our flight (you already knew) we got rescheduled for a flight 2 days later.  Then they delayed that flight which made us miss our connection in Toronto and there weren’t any other flights leaving that night.  So we had to spend the night there…. what a mess!  But, my sister and I are finally home and there is tons to catch up on!

I finally finished my Olga’s Vest! Yay! Can I get a pat on the back? Please?!  You have no idea how much discipline it took for me to actually knit this all the way through with all of you.  I had 6 other projects that I took with me- every time I piked up the Olga’s Vest they would cry my name.  But, I stuck with it, and then some!

Here are the final photos of my vest- before I show you… there is good new and bad news.  The good news- I lost weight in Israel because I am allergic to tomatoes and everything has tomatoes.  The bad news- my Olga’s Vest doesn’t fit me anymore.  Boohoo- I’m crying inside… Haha! I love my tomato allergy…. sometimes….

So I have a medium sized dress form that I photographed the vest on, but I had to do some serious pinning and pulling so that it wouldn’t fall off of her.  Here are the photos!




I forgot to tell you that I dropped the KidSilk Haze for the button band.  I’m not in love with the look, but I like it a lot and I’m pretty happy.  Plus this whole project was an exercise in discipline.  That’s a good thing.

Here are a couple of images of the slit that I LOVE! I added a couple buttons for two reasons- it adds a little extra somethin’ somethin’ and also just in case one of the buttons falls off the button band I have an extra one hiding in plain sight.




I hoped you all liked my vest and I can’t wait for you all to share your WIPs and FOs on Ravely!  I would love to see what you all have done and the progress you have made!

Another note- I am no longer working at the shop and will have plenty of more time for all the blogging I have been wanting to do.  I had a goal of blogging once a week- but I think I will now have time for more than that.  No promises, but I am going to try very hard!

Hey everyone.  I hope you all had a good and productive week.  I missed my flight out of Israel and ended up stranded here for a few extra days.  I hoped to work on my vest on the 14 hour flight home and then do some photos after I got home on Friday, then have a nice post with finished photos.

Unfortunately because I missed my flight I wasn’t able to do all my homework and I’ll be flying all of Saturday.  So I had to skip straight to the button band to make sure I had something to post this week.  I will post finished photos of the garment after I sew on the buttons and finish blocking the piece…. hopefully by Wednesday.

So this week we will discuss how to remove your provisional cast on.  In week two I linked to a great video that shows you how to remove this cast on, but just in case you were curious to see a step by step process I have created one for you.




First you want to take out the original knot you made with the working yarn and the waste yarn.  Then to be safe just take a needle a few sizes smaller than your working needle and thread this needle through your live stitches with waste yarn still in the work.  Then remove the waste yarn- your work should look like the second picture above. Remember the nature of the cast on we used for this pattern twists the orientation of every other stitch.  You can see this a little better in the picture above and to the right.




There are two ways to correct the orientation of the twisted stitches.  This is the first way.  You can start by transferring the stitches by just slipping them.  If you do this make sure to stay on the same needle size as you picked up the live stitches with, if you change to a larger needle this could stretch your stitches.  When it comes to the twisted stitch (as shown in the first and last pictures above) you will slip the stitch from your left hand needle to your right hand needle purl wise and through the back loopThe stitches that aren’t twisted (as shown in the second picture above) just slip them off purl wise as usual.  After you have transferred all the stitches then you are ready to start your button band.




The second way to tackle the twisted stitches is to just simply work into them.  Remember that if you are going to actually work into the stitch that you have to change your needle size to the appropriate needle size in the pattern.  You can work off the smaller needle size onto the larger needle size, you don’t have to transfer the stitches.  The way you would approach this is the same way you would approach the stitch transfer.  The first stitch (since it’s the right side row) you will knit into the back loop of the stitch, then yf, sl p.wise (as usual)… and so on.

Remember that when you bind off your work you should go up 2-3 needle sizes so that your stitches don’t pull tight and pucker.  Next time I will post some photos of the finished piece with buttons and all.   Please let me know if you have any questions- you can post them here, Ravelry or Facebook or email them to

If you are not a member of the newsletter then this is what you missed.  I am having a sale on the Grace Headband, Triangles, Diamonds & Squares… Oh my! and Vertical Force patterns.  All patterns include short rows! Woohoo!  Make sure to use the Ravelry coupon code IHeartShortRows to save 15% from Saturday, September 22nd through Sunday, September 30th by 11:59pm Pacific time.

It’s gettin’ close to that time, we are almost done with the KAL.  This week we will discuss ow to insert a decorative slit on the side of the vest and then we will review the second armhole.  Next week is our very last week for the KAL and we will discuss the button bands as well as blocking.  If I don’t post a picture of the finished garment next week you will have to forgive me because I am out of the country and flying in right before the next KAL post.  If I don’t post a picture of the finished garment next week, then I will shortly after- that’s a promise.

So when your vest measures the same distance from the lifeline to the armhole as the other half then you are ready to start the second armhole.  When I reached this point I had to TINK (knit backwards) one row because I wanted to work the slit before the armhole and the slit has to be started on a wrong side row.  One thing to keep in mind if you are making the slit that you MUST bind off an even number of stitches, if you don’t it will throw off your stitch pattern.

I decided that I wanted a slit that was only 16 sts in depth.  If you decide to make a deeper slit, that’s okay too.  I suggest putting a lifeline the row before you make the slit (and making a note so you know which row in the stitch pattern your lifeline lies).  If you don’t like the depth of your slit you can always take it out the lifeline and start over.  But remember, always work an even number of stitches for the slit.

It is also a good idea to keep your work in pattern when binding off for the slit, just as you did for the previous armhole.  If you decide that you don’t really feel comfortable with keeping the bind off in pattern and you just want to bind off purl wise then try going down a needle size or two just for the bind off- but watch out because your stitches might flare.

Below are a series of photos of the slit in progress:




Decide how many stitches you would like to bind off, in my case 16 sts.  With wrong side facing bind off an even number of sts in pattern and work to end of row. On the next right side row (this is your the first row for your armhole), work the armhole pattern as you worked the first one then work to end of row (as written in the pattern).  Then using the crochet cast on as discussed in week three cast on the same number of stitches you bound off for the slit.

If you made any modifications and notes to the first armhole this is when you would refer to them.  The second armhole is worked exactly as the first one in week three.

After you have worked both you slit and your armhole thread in another lifeline but do not remove the slit lifeline (just in case you change your mind about the slit).   Make a note of the placement of each lifeline and continue to work in pattern until the length after the second armhole is the same length as the first armhole to the cast on.

Please let me know if you have any questions- you can post them here, Ravelry or Facebook or email them to

Check out three of my newest fall/winter patterns: Walt’s Tangled Cables, Bumble Stripes & Olana Slouch.

This week is kind of a catchup week… and boy do I need it.  I have been working on a project with a really tight deadline and haven’t had a chance to work on my Olga’s Vest with all of you.  I would love to tell you what it is, but unfortunately if I told you I’d have to kill you.  Haha! I’ll tell you soon enough… don’t worry.  By the end of October you will hear all about it.

Last week I promised that I would discuss lifelines again since there isn’t much to work on this week besides the other half of the front.  I came across this great YouTube video on two ways to insert lifelines.  The video shows how to insert a lifeline using Knit Picks Interchangeable needle (but this will also work for Lantern Moon Interchangeable needles as well).  The other technique the video shows works well for both straight and circular needles.  I have never seen this technique used before this video but it is kind of neat and not hard to do.

How ever you decide to insert a lifeline make sure you put them in often- but remember DO NOT remove your center lifeline until you are done (and satisfied) with the second armhole.  Next week we will talk about the second armhole and a little slit modification possibility.  I have done a slit before…. in retrospect it was a little too deep of a slit but I still really love it.  I also think if I didn’t do the slit as deep as I did then the vest wouldn’t have fit around my ample tushy…. since I made it too long to start with – one mess right after another.

Please let me know if you have any questions- you can post them here, Ravelry or Facebook or email them to  Also don’t miss out on the little SALE I am having on three of my patterns.  Make sure to use the Ravelry coupon code NewsletterSale9.12 by Tomorrow- September 9th, 2012 by 11:59pm Pacific Time to receive 15% off your purchase of Alisha’s Cardigan, Rippling Lace and Walt’s Tangled Cables.




So… moving right along.  It’s very uncommon that stitches will get wrapped twice when working short rows, but every now and then you will come across a pattern that has you wrap stitches twice and then work up to them and pick up both of the wraps. This is one of those patterns.

If you decide that you don’t want to pick up the wraps that’s fine too- but expect there to be gaps running down your cowl section.  You may or may not like the look of these gaps, but I will let you decide the direction in which you would like to go.

The first time you get to a wrap there is only one to pick up and you can pick it up the way you normally would.  Also you can check out the free Craftsy Class I recommended last week by Carol Feller on how to work short-rows and pick up the wraps.



1- Slip the first wrapped stitch from your left hand needle to your right hand needle (knit wise).

2- With the tip of your left hand needle, pick up the wrap around the stitch.

3- Place the slipped stitch from your right hand needle back onto your left hand needle.

4- Knit the two stitches (the original stitch and the wrap) together as if they were one.


The rest of this part of the pattern is the same.  As I discussed last week, make sure to keep the integrity of the stitch pattern intact when working this pattern.  Make sure you have the same number of stitches throughout the cowl section.  If your stitch count changes this will offset your pattern when you go back to work the second half of the front.

Now when it comes to picking up two wraps around your stitches it is essentially the same idea.  This might seem confusing or cumbersome, but it is the same idea.  The only difference is that you will be picking up two wraps instead of one and working three stitches together instead of two.  Lets go through it together, shall we?


First thing is first, if you don’t know what a double wrap looks like you are going to have a hell of a time trying to pick it up.  Above is a picture of a double wrap- I circled it to make it easier to see.  You can compare it to the wraps to the left of the circled one and see that each stitch has only been wrapped once.  The difference between a single wrap and a double wrap is very slight but makes all the difference.



1- Slip the first wrapped stitch from your left hand needle to your right hand needle (knit wise).

2- With the tip of your left hand needle, pick up the two wraps around the stitch.

3- Place the slipped stitch from your right hand needle back onto your left hand needle.

4- Knit the three stitches (the original stitch and the two wraps) together as if they were one.


Continue working the wraps this way for the remainder of the cowl section.  When you are finished with the cowl section your piece should look like this.  DO NOT remove your lifeline! You’ll need it later.



Next week is a break week.  You will have about two weeks to get to the second armhole.  I will show again how to insert a lifeline.  If I have time I will make a little demo video… but no promises, okay?  Please let me know if you have any questions- you can post them here, Ravelry or Facebook or email them to  Happy knitting!!!

Check out two of my new patterns – Olana Slouch & Alisha’s Cardigan now available on Ravelry!
Olana Slouch
Alisha’s Cardigan